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Rushes in Paradise

atlantis-1.jpgApologies for my reduced posting this week, but, save a couple of brief Twitter and Facebook updates on the front end of my trip, from Saturday through Tuesday I went radio silent while absorbing a visit to Atlantis, Paradise Island in the Bahamas and I'm currently attempting to cope with my besieged inbox. While the trip was for work (a press event), it also was very personal, signaling my first mom-daughter flight with Laurel and my first work trip where Laurel was encouraged to attend. The trip also provided opportunity to reflect on some of my baggage about life's luxuries (suffice to say, growing up, my immediate family of nine never flew anywhere), and also about human behavior in response to rushes of all kinds (you can take the girl out of psychology, but not the psychologist out of the girl).

The trip was hosted by JetBlue, LEGO, and the Atlantis Resort, with the focal points being to experience the family friendliness of JetBlue, learn about LEGO Atlantis (a LEGO fantasy camp is coming to the Atlantis Resort in July), and preview the newly opened Atlantis Kids Adventures club. It was an honor to be amidst a diverse and interesting group of writers (spanning bloggers, newspaper reporters, and travel writers), and it was truly wonderful to spend some time with friends such as Liz Gumbinner (Mom-101, Cool Mom Picks), Anna Fader (Mommy Poppins), Nicole Feliciano (Momtrends), C.C. Chapman (Digital Dads), Kim Foley MacKinnon (Daily Candy Kids, Boston), Carol Cain (The Adventures of a NYCity Mama), Erica Ehm (The Yummy Mummy Club), and Jill Notkin (The Daily Grind of a Work at Home Mom), and also to befriend folks such as Mara Gorman (Mother of All Trips), Candice (Mom Most Traveled), Kim Orlando (Traveling Mom), and Aliya King.

The following are observations that I hope will prove useful, both from a general parenting perspective, as well as for family trip planning -- to Altantis and elsewhere:

Consider JetBlue.

This was my first time flying JetBlue and I really dug them; as in, I’ll be checking their flight availability first for future travel. Two of the three flight legs (we flew Boston to JFK, then JFK to the Bahamas on the way down and direct from the Bahamas to Boston on the return) we traveled unidentified (i.e., not as part of the press tour) and the service was the same (excellent) in all cases. The flights were comfortable, the leg room ample (they claim to offer the most of all the airlines), the staff super friendly, and the website modern and happily easily to navigate. The e-mail flight reminders were helpful and not spammy; I especially appreciated the reminders to print my boarding passes in advance, which I recommend doing regardless of airline (if available) as a fantastic way to cut down your travel time. JetBlue also offer lots of snacks (including trans-fat free) and -- major bonus -- they check your first bag for free. I travel very light (Laurel and I only did carry on) but when you've got a stroller, diaper bag, etc. in tow, you will need to check bags and this benefit is appreciated.

Lighten your load.

As I said, I travel light and do whatever I can to save precious space. Obviously, it helps to travel to a warm weather destination where clothing isn’t bulky, but you can still do little things to lighten your load inbound (particularly if you want to leave room so you can pick up gifts and souvenirs when you travel). For example, I save space on toiletries by using the products offered in the hotel bathroom, and make use of my random skin care sample packets instead of bringing full sized tubes (some of which wouldn't meet carry on regulations anyway). I also bring almost run down tubes of product (e.g., sunscreen) so I can use and dispose of them en route and not tote them back. And my best space saver trick for this trip was not bothering to bring a beach tote, instead opting for an Envirosax bag, which folds up teeny tiny and weighs almost nothing, then expands into a functional tote that holds a ton and is easy to shake sand loose from at the end of the day.

LEGO is cool for boys, girls, and grownups.

LEGO obviously is a long standing brand, but for some reason, we have no LEGO sets in our house, save a toddler block set from way back when. This might be due to gender bias -- when I think LEGO, I tend to think of boy sets (which isn’t totally unfounded if you look at their product spread), and perhaps that is why we've instead collected Playmobil (princess, fairy, etc. sets). However, on the plane ride down and through the visit, Laurel and I both had a chance to construct with LEGOs and had enormous fun doing it. During our flight (pictured below), we worked on little color coded LEGO squares that ultimately became part of a big mural; otherwise, it was fun to see Laurel’s creative free construction (e.g., make a dolphin out of blue LEGOs), and also see her spatial orientation wheels turning as she worked on following the pictorial steps to create sets.

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Atlantis: General.

This was my first time visiting the Atlantis Resort; it is large and mostly picturesque and it’s very easy to stay on the property for your entire trip (i.e., don't bother renting a car from the airport; take a shuttle). The resort offers a variety of accommodations, restaurants, entertainment, and shopping options, as well as a fitness center, spa, and of course the beach and water attractions. Though I admittedly have limited resort experience, what surprised me most was that the resort felt less peaceful cabana (my ideal vision of a resort) and more Vegas meets water park (though choice of accommodation at the resort may impact experience; see below). The vibe was definitely more American than international (I had hoped for the latter). Everywhere we went, the staff was wonderfully friendly.

Also, definitely fly direct if you can; flying JetBlue on a direct return, it was pretty excellent that the flight was just over three hours to get back to Boston.

Atlantis: Cost.

Not surprisingly for a destination vacation, generally speaking, Atlantis is not for the faint of budget. I recommend exploring special packages. In general, your booking will include your room and general amenities (e.g., access to the pools, water park, towel service, etc.) and you should budget for everything else (e.g., food, time in the kids club, special activities such as Dolphin Cay, etc.).

Atlantis: Lodging.

One of my regrets is that we did not do a property tour. We stayed in the Royal Towers (feels like a spacious but standard hotel room, save the amazing view, such as ours from the 20th floor, pictured below), which is notable for its easy access to amenities (water entertainment, beach, dolphins, kids club, etc.) but also means you are central to the casino. I know a lot of people enjoy casinos, but I have never been able to shake the cloud (both smoky and less physically tangible) of manipulation in the air. It depressed me to walk through the casino in the afternoon (walking through the casino is the most direct path to other facilities; though Laurel and I started using a more roundabout outdoor path) and see people gambling while it was gorgeous outside.

But I digress. My point is that in my wanderings, I discovered that the opposite ends of the resort were more of what I envisioned the Bahamas to be: calm, quiet, stunningly beautiful. That's where I would book in the future because for me, if I'm going to go on a tropical vacation I want something more like cabana on the beach, not Sheraton next to the casino. I would also recommend exploring rooms that have a refrigerator (and a kitchenette if possible) because food is expensive. Even if you don’t cook all of your meals, at least you could refrigerate restaurant leftovers instead of dumping them.

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Atlantis: Kids Adventures Club.

The Atlantis Kids Adventures club is a drop off center for resort guests ages 3-12 (fee per hour service); it is very modern, snazzy, and digitally oriented and seeks to appeal to a wide range of ages via traditional (crafts, cooking, imaginative play, etc.) and digital entertainment. Admittedly, similar to my feelings about the casino, I had moments of wondering why you would want your kid indoors when outdoors is the Bahamas, but a kids club does make sense for when the sun is at peak, in inclement weather, and if you want to have an enclosed, secure space to drop your kids off so you can enjoy a massage or have a nice dinner.

Related to rushes, I felt as if a lot of the digital and design aspects of the club were all about the next cool rush (more lights, more colors, more action), but this may be a function of having a 5-year-old who isn't yet into video games. And I realize we were there for a grand opening, but the sugar rush factor was overwhelming. In addition to the celebratory cake and big-as-your-head chocolate bars, Laurel went on a Willy Wonka tour from which she returned with a big bag of candy (groan). Related to this, I took issue with the culinary demo. Part of the AKA club is a gorgeous, modern kitchen for cooking with kids; unfortunately it is limited to 6-12 year olds, which I strongly urge that they rethink given that kids can be very engaged in the kitchen even as young as 3 years old (as Laurel was). The demo Laurel and I started to sit in on (then abandoned) was to create a sugar coral reef (more sugar!), which made no sense to me since the kids couldn’t be very engaged (given the hot sugars and blow torches…). It would have been far more meaningful to teach the kids about local fruits and have them make and eat toothpick fruit boats or something. Not difficult, still fun and interactive, locally inspired, and way more healthy.

All of this said, there were things about the AKA club that Laurel really loved. The craft room was a huge hit, and she loved the dress up room. She also loved the interactive floor displays (e.g., stomping around to chase jellyfish or whatever) in the performance area. And in a very telling moment, when Liz and I escaped with the girls to the backyard area for some peace and quiet, Laurel and Liz’s daughter Thalia entertained themselves endlessly with a couple of inexpensive hula hoops.

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A final thing that warrants mention: the AKA club is kids only. Kids must be potty trained and willing to hang out without their parents (drop off at the door). Laurel met requirement #1 but not #2. I was privy to the above observations for the press opening, but when I tried to take Laurel to the AKA club so Liz, Nicole, and I could test some of the grownup water slides, she would not go (I was prepared for this...instead we hit the water park). So, the AKA club might not serve as much of a benefit to you if you’ve got an uber attached kid like mine.

Atlantis: Water play.

As you may have gathered, Laurel and my best rushes were experienced outside. Though some areas of the resort showed wear and tear (faded signs, empty water recesses, cracks in the facade), in general the grounds were beautiful and the beach breathtaking. There are kid-friendly pools across the property, as well as water adventures (snorkeling, scuba, and snuba), water slides big and small, and river rides. By far, Laurel's favorite water park activity was The Current, a mile-long inner tube ride that alternates between calmness and craziness (extreme rapids). With a life jacket on Laurel and using a two-person inner tube, it was no problem; she would not go on some of the big kid water slides (far shorter and less crazy, but no grownups allowed), but we rode The Current four times in the span of 24 hours. It was a great ride for grownups too.

If you visit Atlantis, I highly recommend you budget for the shallow water interaction at Dolphin Cay (you currently can book this and other water adventures at a discount if you make a reservation along with a room booking). At first I thought it was just a photo op, but the experience was so much more than that. At Dolphin Cay, Laurel and I got to hug, kiss, and dance with dolphins and then learn about dolphin physiology and sensory systems. As a former scientist, I found this hugely fascinating, and felt such gratitude to be amidst these large and gentle creatures. It was an extremely moving, nature-inspired rush, particularly given that as urban dwellers, our interactions with critters are mostly begrudged ("Get out of my trash, squirrel!”).

My one regret is that on our last day I did not plan in advance enough to do a similar visit with Laurel to meet the sea lions. The dolphin interaction gave hands on learning a totally new meaning for Laurel…it was truly remarkable.

Atlantis: Food.

For the most part, we experienced buffet style restaurants, save one trip to a traditional café and a ladies outing with Liz, Anna, and Nicole to the very spectacular Nobu one night. Two things struck me about the food. First, I strongly advise thinking through your family's eating habits because the food costs can be expensive. If your family eats relatively lightly, consider cafe style (pay as you go) versus a meal plan and the buffets that invariably lead to overeating. As I mentioned earlier, I also recommend exploring rooms that offer a refrigerator or kitchen so you can save leftovers and/or do some meals (e.g., easy ones like breakfast and lunch) for less.

My second comment about the food at the resort was that I was disappointed by how American the spreads at the buffet restaurants were. Though it was convenient to have standard kid-friendly foods (e.g., pasta, chicken nuggets, etc.) available, I wanted more local fare to sample and explore and introduce to Laurel.

One additional aspect that may have been more reflective of the press trip than the resort was the unnecessary focus on the sugar rush. As mentioned above, I definitely felt that at the AKA club, and at some of the press meals, the dessert spreads were unnecessarily over the top. Laurel knows how I feel about excessive sweets and she knows the consequences (having had 3 cavities drilled last year), and I think she and I managed a decent balance. However, in another telling moment, after one meal she came up to me -- showing me her dessert plate, which had several options on it, each with only a bite or two taken -- and said, “Mom, this actually doesn’t taste as good as it looks.”

Know your kids and don’t try to force an experience.

I saw a couple of instances where parents tried to force crying children down water slides and have heard of similar behavior at other vacation spots. There's a sense that if you paid for it, damn it, your kid better get the most out of it. But in my opinion, when you're booking a family vacation, it’s important to try to strike a balance between what will be enjoyable for the grownups and what your kid can reasonably handle. Obviously, older kids will probably get more out of -- and remember more of -- a trip to Atlantis; even so, depending on the temperament of your kid, they may not be keen on something like the AKA club (as was the case for Laurel) or some of the bigger water slides. Just roll with it; anxiety ridden, tearful forced experiences do not make for happy family vacation memories.

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In summary, this was a remarkable trip in many ways, and also one that gave me pause. As you can gather from this post, logistically, there were a lot of cool things about Atlantis, and also some things I wasn’t wild about (which I acknowledge are personal preference and others might be totally fine with). Emotionally, the trip was a strange mix of feeling unbelievably grateful to have this opportunity and time with Laurel, and also nostalgic that I never had opportunities like this with my parents. And as a parent and former psychologist, it was interesting -- though ultimately not surprising to me -- to see how some rushes (desserts, digital entertainment, race cars, casino, etc.) were short lived and fleeting in memory, whereas the simple, nature inspired rushes (communing with dolphins, enjoying the water park in the gorgeous weather, playing with a 50 cent hula hoop with a friend) have proved to be the real sticking points for Laurel.

That, of course, and quality time with a mom who is unplugged for four days.

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Comments

How fun, Christine - tx for sharing your adventure. My parents lived in Nassau for years, so I've been there often and had a tour of Atlantis early on as it was being built. Amazing to hear how elaborate it's become. Sounds more like Disney World. But at the end of the day, you're right that the crystal clear water and that serene sandy beach is the memory you'll take home with you.

I love this recap. It's so thorough and will aid any parent who is looking to book a family trip to the Bahamas.

Years ago when I traveled to the Bahamas I experienced a lot of the same things re: food. I was a teenager, but even I couldn't believe the cost of a can of Coke It was outrageous. Plus, there was very little variety as you mentioned. So while we stayed at the resort, we often took a bus or boat into town and ate with the locals. So much cheaper and fun!

One experience I will never forget is a tour my parents booked of the island that tourists usually don't take. I got to see how and where the locals lived. The stark contrast between the resort and how real people lived was startling.

I am so glad you had a wonderful time. It looked like an amazing press trip!

I can't find anything in your write up that I disagree with.

The food was a disappointment for me as well, but the one day we snuck over to Mosaic for their buffet made me happy as I found fresh fish and local favorites instead of the same old same old.

I fly JetBlue all the time and it is my preferred airline when traveling. Especially with kids as the televisions and awesome staff help keep them busy on a long trip.

I've still got to write up my whole experience, but it was great to spend some time with you and the little one. I'm glad she is now my buddy. *grin*

Thanks for this article Christine, it was fascinating to read. I subscribe to your sentiments re: too much sweet stuff for young children. It's a shame that the cookery sessions didn't focus on healthier options.

Jennifer, EXCELLENT point! Because yes, had we had more time, it would have been great to leave the property to explore the true local culture and food.

Before I headed on the trip, some friends who have been to the Bahamas told me such great things about local fare -- how it's all about conch and how you can buy fish right off the boat. Basically (and logically), if you buy local, it's not expensive but if you buy things (like Coke) that you need to fly in, it will be expensive.

The only conch I could find at the resort was at Nobu and via conch fritters at a beach cafe (could not even detect conch in them). I found this to be a bit tragic.

Very thoughtful and accurate review, Christine. The hula hoops were definitely a highlight! That, and spending time with a wonderful new friend - and knowing my daughter felt the very same way.

Great, balanced recap. (It's funny. I was talking to Nicole about the trip yesterday and she brought up similar pros/cons.)

Most of all, I'm happy that you were able to have some mother/daughter time with your adorable little one!

Thanks for the great review. Your sentiments echo my reluctance to visit an island resort (or cruise). I prefer to either go all out and have a manipulated experience (i.e. Disney World) or go all natural (i.e. the beach). And something about being in a country and not actually experiencing it at all seem unfortunate to me. Despite the drawbacks, I'm glad that you and Laurel had such wonderful mom-daughter time. In the end, it matters less what you do and more that you're doing it together!

Hi Christine -- We're big fans of JetBlue for air travel with kids, so not surprised to hear about your flights. And you're right about looking into special offers and promotions to try and reduce the overall spend on a stay. One caveat, though: not all "deals" will actually save you money, so you really need to do the math!

Very balance Christine. I mentioned the food too, but your point about it being so "American" is important. I'm going to link up your review to the Momtrends one here:

http://momtrends.blogspot.com/2010/01/active-family-vacations-atlantis-review.html

Great review.

I share your preferences for lower key accommodation and simpler eating while traveling. But in the almost 3 years since creating my site I've had to develop a more open mind about what parents are really looking for in a family vacation.

Thank you for sharing this excellent post that critiques without criticizing. I hope you won't mind if I study it to try to improve my own writing (or, at the very least, my tone!)

Hi Christine…Atlantis here. We are so grateful for your input and mom perspective and would love to share a few things that we did not have time to fit in during jetAdventure. Also will share some of the results of your feedback, especially as relates to culinary choices for families around the resort in a separate post.

It was great that you noted the different look, feel and spirit of each of the areas of accommodation at the resort. We like to classify the resort as a destination with a lot of choices, especially in where to stay. The iconic Royal Towers is indeed the big kahuna and the center of the resort. It is as immersive in the Atlantis “themed” excitement as one can get – and it is very stimulating. For many, that is nirvana – especially being amidst the marine life in The Dig, the soaring Atlantean columns and murals as well as being adjacent to the casino. We spent time in both the Beach Tower and Coral Tower during your visit. Beach Tower is as casual and barefoot as it gets. It is also our best value entry point into Atlantis and the home of Atlantis Pals (where you made your own animals, dressed and named them to bring home), Earth and Fire Pottery and the teen Club Rush. Beach Tower even has its own quieter pools and lazy river, a wide sprawling area of the beach as well as a turtle exhibit. Coral Towers, the home of Atlantis Speedway (where you can build and race your own radio-controlled car – even a pink one) is adjacent to Marina Village (where you can dine at Carmines, Johnny Rockets, grab a light bite at Jamba Juice or walk along the marina to see the yachts docked at the resort). Coral Towers houses the Atlantis Theater (where free, family-friendly movies play throughout the day), the new Blu Pool (a hip place where parents can go without young children to listen to great music and relax in the sun) and the Crystal Court shopping area. On the other end of the spectrum is The Cove Atlantis – a 600 key all-suite ultra-luxury resort-within-a-resort, offering guests private all-adult and family pools, exquisite beach and pool-side cabanas and breathtaking views of the ocean at every turn. The resort’s newest tower, The Reef, offers home-like accommodations on Paradise Beach with kitchens and washer and dryers, a grocery store in the lobby and access to a private family pool. Hope that helps for a virtual tour!
http://www.atlantis.com/accommodations/overview.aspx.

Wanted to also share some details on dining at Atlantis. Wish we had all of you for more than 2 full days as there are literally 41 dining options from which to choose. So, you mentioned Bahamian food - we actually have a family restaurant called Bimini Road, located in Marina Village, that serves mostly Bahamian dishes, fresh seafood (and yes, tons of conch) as well as a variety of options for those who are not adventurous (hamburgers, etc...). We offer two different meal plans that apply to breakfast and dinner and in both, children 6 and under dine for free with their parents and children 7-11 years old are charged half price. For example, the casual dining plan is $75 per day, per adult and is valid in Murray’s Deli, Platos, Atlas Bar and Grill, Marina Pizzeria, Carmines, Chop Stix, Bimini Road and The Point Restaurant and Bar in addition to the buffet restaurants. So, there is always choice. Our chefs wanted you to know as well that every buffet features healthy choices from crudités to salad to fresh fruit to grilled meats and fish. Because there are chefs at each station, they are also happy to plain grill any of these on request and many dishes are offered with sauce on the side. Each of the buffet restaurants also have a type of food – for example, Seagrapes – our newest buffet in Beach Tower – features cracked conch and fresh seafood – and Mosaic (which is available on the gourmet dining plan) at The Cove is more Mediterranean in style. He also wanted you to know that we offer sugar free desserts at every buffet – they rotate each day and range from cakes and cookies to puddings and other options.

Now, the newly launched AKA Culinary Adventure is one where we love your feedback. The team really wanted to show you how a 3-hour culinary adventure works – with chef demonstrations and then hands on preparation. True – it is designed for 6-12-year-old, but we are looking at how we can do a 3-5-year-old-friendly session as well. Stay tuned! The latest news from the chefs: over the next three months, they’ll be introducing 14 different programs from which to choose. They already offer pretzel rolling and pizza baking (make the dough and the sauce, add the cheese, veggies and other toppings), but will also feature bread making, fruit sushi rolling, pasta making (and sauce making) and vegetable options. The chefs would LOVE some mom suggestions (and some from Laurel, too). This will evolve as we get feedback from our young guests and their parents. We listen. The latest news is that chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten (of Café Martinique and Dune on our property as well as many, many other restaurants around the world) will be developing a recipe with his 8-year-old daughter Chloe for AKA. Others forthcoming.

So, moms, please send us your suggestions!

What a wonderful experience! That is so sweet you and Laurel were able to share this experience together. I am sure she will remember it for many years.

As for Atlantis, I am so glad you posted this comprehensive review. I have been curious about it ever since I lived in Miami.

I am so happy that you were offered this opportunity to share with Laurel! I think that one of my favorite things about you is your ability to be fair and honest about your experiences. This post is a perfect example of that. You gave a balanced view of your own experience - although it sounds like there was SO much else to see there and you just didn't have the time.

I loved hearing about the kids cooking program (as you can imagine!) and love love love that you want opportunities for younger chefs. Many parents don't know that their toddlers love to be in the kitchen and that there are many safe ways that they can participate. I hope that the resort takes heed and expands their culinary workshops to toddlers. (I would be happy to council them!). And finally, it is great that you publicly support the idea of moderation. Of everything! Thanks for sharing your experience! xo

Thank you for doing such a fair review (as I would have expected anyway from you!). As someone who would like to use the drop-off kids' center a bit, I'm a bit disappointed to hear it's more of a location vs. a club where the kids go and do stuff with a few counselors. Who would want their kids indoors in The Bahamas? Plus, one of my kids goes comatose in from of blinky lights, so I'd probably have to limit his time in anything too techy.

I also didn't realize there was a casino---I avoid those like the plague, so it would definitely be important to me to book far away from any casino.

Thanks again Christine!

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