My father's family came to the United States from Germany in the 19th-century and brought with them a recipe for cookies called Butter Gebachans. Made from a base of butter and ground almonds and lots and lots of flour, the cookies are less sweet and more spicy - cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves are all included in generous portions - than the average American holiday cookie. They have a nice flavor and texture, though, and have a solid consistency that allows them to stand up to delicate cookie cutters. A wash of egg yolk and milk at the very end gives them a lovely golden color, and they always make the house smell nice while baking.

The specific details are unimportant; the point is that my father loves these cookies. Loves them like childhood. Loves them the way we love anything that reminds us of home and comfort and parents many years gone. I first started making the cookies for him when I was an early teenager, and I have continued to do so each year, sometimes with more and less grace. They're effortful to make and roll and cut and bake, and I've been guilty over the years of complaining about it - complaining about the work and the mess and the fact that it felt like an unwanted obligation.

This year, however, I decided to approach it differently, and to embrace the project as a way both to show and honor my love for my father - in a year in which we had decided to forgo purchased gifts all together - and to bring my daughter into the mix as a fun way to pass the tradition along. Doing so made for a much more satisfying experience, and also taught me a little something about making the holidays what you want them to be without shutting out the wishes of others. Best wishes to everyone for a great 2009, and for the creation and nurturing of traditions both old and new."

Butter Gebachans*